Why I'll never again be upset when people assume I have cancer: Experiences as a bald woman in Indonesia

This is a bit long, but please read and share it if you have ever felt upset at being mistaken for a cancer patient, and/or if you are travelling to other parts of the world as a bald woman.

I've just returned from 5 and a half weeks in the beautiful country of Indonesia with my husband. The purpose of our trip was scuba diving - Indonesia has some of the finest diving in the world - and we'd never been there. In 23 days of diving at several locations, I did 71 dives. The underwater life was truly amazing and we also got to see Komodo Dragons up close on land.

While we were at two dive resorts and on a "liveaboard" dive boat, I had NO issues with being bald. (As I've posted before, bald is the best way to be when you're doing 3-4 dives a day and getting in and out of a wetsuit!) The wonderful Indonesian staff and other divers (mostly Americans), accepted my appearance immediately, and I explained about Alopecia if they asked.

The Indonesian people who worked at the resorts or on the dive boats were great: warm, easy-going, and open. We made several Indonesian friends who I know we'll stay in touch with. We worked on learning the Indonesian language from the beginning of the trip, and they all had fun helping us learn new words and expressions and encouraging us. One of the best things about the trip was the Indonesian people we got to know.

But, being bald was a different experience when we were on land in between the dive locations. The temperature was in the 90's and the humidity must have been 90% - really hot. So, I was bald except when I absolutely needed to have my hat on for sun protection. We stayed in hotels in several towns on the island of Bali, and transited through airports in Bali and the island of Sulawesi. On the town streets and at the airports, it became clear to me immediately that no one had EVER seen a bald woman before, and that I was viewed as an extreme oddity. The stares and double takes were like nothing I've ever experienced in the US in almost 3 years of going out bald.

Here in America, most people assume I've lost my hair due to chemotherapy. NO ONE made that assumption in Indonesia. It quickly became obvious that everyone thought I shaved my head and chose this look, and it was obvious that I was the first bald woman they'd ever seen. Not one person asked me about cancer....instead, people came up to me in stores and on the street (usually young men) and asked me why I did it. Or, they would point to my head and just make a gesture of surprise. One young guy shouted "Why you cut your hair!?" with an expression of disbelief. I felt like a genuine freak, but with sweat dripping off my scalp and soaking my shirt, wearing a scarf was out of the question for me, and I took off my hat as soon as I was out of the sun.

I quickly figured out from my phrasebook how to say "I'm sick, I don't have any hair, I'm okay": "Saya sakit, tidak ada rambut, saya baik." (Apologies to Indonesian AW members for any language mistakes.) I found that if I just said "I'm sick", people usually got it right away and their expression changed to one of sympathy. There were a few guys who just smiled and gave me a thumbs up - they obviously liked the look, but also assumed it was a "fashion choice."

The worst experience was at the busy airport in Manado, North Sulawesi. The taxi dropped us off at the curb, and I waited with all our bags while my husband went inside to get luggage carts. As usual, people in the large crowd were staring at me, but I was getting used to that. Then, a group of stylishly-dressed young women, all in elegant full-head scarves, started pointing and laughing and taking photos of me. Two of them actually came over and stood next to me to have a photo taken with me!

As many of you know, I'm not shy. But, I was so shocked and upset that I just stood there like a (bald)deer in the headlights. I didn't say anything in Indonesian or English, and did nothing except turn my back to them. When they kept trying to take photos and the crowd grew around me, I finally put on my scarf. At that point, my husband came out with the carts and we loaded our luggage and went into the terminal. I was shaking.

For two days, I was angry at myself for NOT confronting those women....I should have motioned them over (I couldn't leave our bags), and said in Indonesian "I'm sick. I don't have any hair. It's not nice to take photo." I knew how to say all of this by that point. Then I could've said the same things (and more) in English. But, I froze.

At the very end of our trip after the diving was finished, we spent 3 great days in Ubud, Bali (of "Eat, Pray, Love" fame). Our guide there was a wonderful man who taught us a lot about the culture, nature and beliefs of Bali. He also continued to help us learn new Indonesian words as well as some Balinese. We became friends with him and his family, and I told him about my negative experiences and asked him how to best respond.

He gave me a more complete response to people like those women at the airport. Here's what he told me to say: "Excuse me. Don't say bad things. I'm sick with a genetic disease. I don't have any hair, but I'm healthy now." "Maaf. Jangan menghina. Saya sakit keturunan. Tidak ada rambut, tapit saya sehat sekaran." Unfortunately, this came at the end of the trip.

Although it's bugged me to be mistaken for a cancer patient, I am SO relieved to be back in a country where THAT is the common assumption, where a bald woman may be unusual, but not the only one people have ever seen!

I strongly recommend that if any of you women are planning on going out bald in other countries, you should learn in advance to say a few simple things. In addition to "where's the bathroom" and "do you speak English", etc.....learn to say that you don't have any hair because you're sick, and that you feel fine.

I won't hesitate to visit Indonesia again, if I ever have the chance. But, next time I'll be prepared!

First photos from trip are here:

http://www.alopeciaworld.net/photo/albums/eat-sleep-dive

Mary

Views: 154

Comment by Mary on October 31, 2010 at 8:25pm
One guy in Bali told me Iook like Buddha. ( ;-)
Comment by Mary on October 31, 2010 at 10:59pm
Terima kasih banyak, Tanya! (is that the same in Malaysian?)

I also had conversations with our Ubud guide/friend about karma. ( ;-)
Comment by Kate on November 1, 2010 at 6:45pm
So sorry to hear about your shocking experience, but I think you of all people are so well equipped to handle it and both learn from it and teach other from the experience. It is also interesting to think that most had never seen a bald woman, not even one going through cancer treatment. It makes me think that most there must not receive any treatment when they are sick, which I think serves as a reminder as to how lucky we are to live in a society where illness like cancer can be treated and often cured.
Comment by Mary on November 1, 2010 at 7:02pm
Kate, that's exactly the conclusion I was forced to draw.

I have to say that I feel better already just sharing the experience with friends on AW....I wanted to at the time, but couldn't get online to do it.
Comment by Tiffany P on November 1, 2010 at 8:50pm
next time with a great smile and a little attiude say " make all the jokes you want you know i look good" then walk away like you were on the catwalk the next time they see a bald woman they wont think sick they will think fabulous :o)
Comment by Mary on November 2, 2010 at 11:54am
Thanks, Stacey...actually, here at home that's exactly what I've done. On the one occasion where someone wouldn't stop staring at me, I looked him in the eye and said "Yes, I'm Bald!". He kept staring, so I repeated the exact same words. Then he snapped out of it and came over and apologized and mumbled something about being surprised by my "fashion choice". Now I have a T-shirt (I had it made on Cafe Press) that says "Yes, I'm Bald...Get Over It"
Comment by Tuesday on November 2, 2010 at 1:07pm
Thank you for detailing your experience. What a story. I don't go au natural but with my scarf, I am often mistaken for a cancer patient. It doesn't bother me in the least as in most cases, the misassumption seems to bring out people's humane side. In fact, if anything, I tend to benefit from people's sympathies.

Now you described, "Then, a group of stylishly-dressed young women, all in elegant full-head scarves, started pointing and laughing and taking photos of me. Two of them actually came over and stood next to me to have a photo taken with me!"

That situation you describe upsets me. Sympathy is one thing ... ridicule and laughing ... I think that is my worst nightmare come true. I'd have been shaking too. I had an entire crowd of people once gasp openingly at my head - that was enough. It's time to raise the middle finger, I think, when that happens.
Comment by Sam Sam on November 2, 2010 at 3:49pm
Wow really enjoyed reading this! Never thought of it that way. We are just excited like anyone else to travel yet out alopecia still follows us. Amazing read! Thanks!
Comment by Cheryl, Co-founder on November 3, 2010 at 9:46am
Hi Mary! I am glad you had such an exciting diving trip but am equally glad that you are back ;).

The thing that caught my attention is the unfortunate people who live there and have alopecia. I can totally understand their efforts to hide their alopecia at all cost. Hopefully in a few years as they start to see more and more people with this condition it will become more common place for them too. No one said that being "yourself" as an alopecian would be easy. It was not so long ago that the situation was similar here.

We are advancing the cause, not just following a trend. You did good! For every person that starred, commented or even laughed the next person that has alopecia will no longer get the full sting of the experience. You have already blazed the trail. You should be proud. Love you Mary!
Comment by Mary on November 3, 2010 at 12:15pm
Thanks, Cheryl! When I was there, I was constantly thinking about women with alopecia who live in an extremely hot or humid climate who feel they have to cover up. As sweat was pouring off our faces and bodies, I kept saying to my husband "I can't imagine how women wear a wig or scarf in heat like this!"

As you say, every time another person sees a bald woman, the day gets closer when it will be as unremarkable as seeing a bald man is now. Love you, too, for all you've done to make it happen.

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